Superior Hiking Trail #1-4 - Grand Portage Trailhead to 131st Ave W. Trailhead

Superior Hiking Trail

Map 1 - Section 4

Grand Portage Trailhead to 131st Ave. W. Trailhead

Date Hiked: April 26th, 2025

Other Sections Hiked That Day: Map 1 - Section 3, Map 1 - Section 5

After rugged and remote scenes taking over shortly after leaving Jay Cooke State Park, or at least the visitor's center area, the riverside stroll wasn't the only surprising sudden change, and not just realizing that I was still within the bounds of the massive aforementioned state park's grounds. The trailhead had groups of people heading in either direction, and the road nearby had somewhat regular traffic. To go from near isolation to seeing human congregation and vehicular consistency was the inverse of the journey into the wilderness from the previous post, and this is only the halfway point of a single hike. 

No matter how many times I get reacquainted with the St. Louis River, one memory in particular will always resurface. A short-lived but nonetheless impactful relationship I had in 2018 gave me an unusual adventure where my special interest in trains combined with a love of kayaking, and I ended up with a hand-crafted wooden loon that still remains prominently displayed on my bookshelf to this day. That was the day I did the Choo-Choo Paddle, where an excursion train dropped us off six miles from the marina, and we paddled back on the St. Louis River by ourselves on a perfect day for weather and affection that would soon regrettably dissipate. Now, seven years later and being a completely different person in countless ways, the river and I caught up like old friends at a high school reunion. There was no animosity or frustration expressed over the duration between visits, but circumstances necessitated the encounter's brevity, and one bend in the trail later left me once again on a short overlook spur, hiking away from my lost contact before I even realized it was over. Such is the nature of a new trail, but lost connections can be such sweet sorrow. 

The white pines were comforting, drifting in the wind with the recognition of someone encountering the steep inclines on which they've been rooted for generations. They were nice enough to provide me with the brief reprieve of a stone bridge before giving me the choice of ending at the 131st Ave. Trailhead or moving on to the Beck's Road stop a mere 2.4 miles farther. I opted for the latter, though I was halfway down the spur route to the trailhead before realizing my error. 

Cell phone signal reconnections were brief and fleeting, but I did manage to alert the person gracious enough to provide me with transport as to where I'd need to be picked up. How much harder could a few miles be on such a glorious sunny Saturday after all? The previous weekend, I'd added 10+ miles after the initial 8.5 of this trail, it couldn't be that bad without having to double back, right? 

Being too exhausted to bother looking for the nearby Geocaches answered that question for me. I once again reminded myself that I'd spent most of the winter hiking trails that were 6 miles or less. 

Alas.

Superior Hiking Trail #1-3 - Jay Cooke State Park to Grand Portage Trailhead

 

Superior Hiking Trail

Map 1 - Section 3

Jay Cooke State Park to Grand Portage Trailhead

Date Hiked: April 26th, 2025

Other Sections Hiked That Day: Map 1 - Section 4, Map 1 - Section 5

Finally, a NOBO hike where I didn't have to worry about how to get back to the starting point! Although, of all the places on the trail where that would be a concern, a parallel with the Munger trail was probably among the most convenient of options. Not only was it rail grade and paved, but being the trail on which I'd recorded my longest hike to date (as of this writing on May 9th), familiarity was a bonus too, considering the dense remoteness of the majority of the Superior Hiking Trail. 

It's amazing how quickly this trail transitions from "hanging out with everyone at the state park" to "when did I get out of the Red Lodge and why is everyone calling me Dougie?" The Northwoods in general have a knack for that skill, but it never becomes less surprising. With Jay Cooke in the proverbial rearview, I straddled the line of intentional isolation among its copious ridges. Turning around a bend, I'd be traversing the ledge of one, spotting another several hundred yards away, and nothing but cavernous abyss between them. Then, without fail, a descent worthy of the hopes and dreams of northeast Ohioan football fans would bring the trail to a creek whose idea of a bridge was "hop on that rock and hope it's steady." Continuing on, almost immediately, the upward trajectory brought the trail back to the other side of that ridge, where I could look back fondly and realize that even a year ago, I'd have been struggling and sore from those two elevation changes, and not just because I hadn't yet discovered the magic of trekking poles. I'd feel really good about myself, and then inevitably be passed in either direction by a trail runner. 

Trail runners simultaneously reminded me of two very different things:

- For all the physical progress and endurance I've gained since becoming a serious hiker, they're on a level I cannot even begin to comprehend. I didn't even like to run playing team sports when I had to. Doing it by choice on such terrain blew my mind. But also...

-The level of difficulty on this trail mostly keeps it limited to those who are serious and dedicated to trail activity, as compared to my "couldn't find a date today/let's take that 38th selfie while blocking the narrow trail" excursion to Judge CR Magney State Park back in February. At some point, maybe by the time you're reading this, I'll have revisited that section as part of the Superior Hiking Trail as opposed to the Minnesota Hiking Club, which now seems like a distant childhood memory of whimsical proportions. 

The timing of this hike presented me with views that would likely very soon be covered up by dense leaves and swarms of bugs. The St. Louis River peeked out beyond thousands of temporarily empty branches, before it would inevitably greet me upon the second section of this hike. 

I wasn't anywhere near ready to be done yet. 

Superior Hiking Trail #1-2 - Jay Cooke State Park to Wild Valley Road

 

Superior Hiking Trail

Map 1 - Section 2

Jay Cooke State Park to Wild Valley Road 

Date Hiked: April 19th, 2025

Other Sections Hiked That Day: Map 1 - Section 1

Grabbing a parking spot early in the day at Jay Cooke State Park was a familiar act. 

A little more than a month prior, I'd done the same thing when I completed the Jay Cooke State Park Hiking Club trail as my first stop of the day. By the time I got back to my car after that three-mile trek, the parking lot was jam-packed. I expected a similar scenario on a day that was even nicer than that one, although I'd be gone much longer this time. 

While I'd decided to begin section-hiking the Superior Hiking Trail, whether or not I'd be going north or south from Jay Cooke was still a question in my mind. It seemed like many people ignored those first two sections to the south, as even AllTrails had a complete route that started from Jay Cooke and concluded at the northern terminus. This likely has to do with the southern portions of the trail, through Duluth and beyond, being much newer than the rest of the trail. Alas, the curse of the completionist struck again, and after turning around several times on the swinging bridge (as rad of a bridge as it was the first time), I was off. 

Two times during the previous summer, I'd attempted sections of the Superior Hiking Trail. Admittedly, doing that while stoned for the first time was a terrible idea, especially as I had no idea how rugged and remote the trail was near the 301 trailhead. A sudden flapping ruffed grouse increased my paranoia, convincing me I'd run into a bear, and I opted to take the road back to my car. I took similar action after hiking a rocky cliffside near Tettegouche later that summer. This time, however, I was prepared. Remoteness, ruggedness, solitude; all things for which 67 state park winter hikes trained me, this time I wouldn't be bailing out to a road after a mile. I'd be bailing out to a road after 8.5 miles, and that's totally different because I completed the sections first! 

The epidemic of AllTrails users downrating trails for having the nerve to be muddy in the spring would've had a field day with this 5.9-mile section of the SHT, because slipping and sliding on these kinds of inclines produce more than a multi-colored pant leg. Without trekking poles, the risk of face-planting and getting nature's chilly skincare treatment becomes an even bigger possibility. I was stunned to still see ice in the valleys, but I had to remind myself that despite sporting my Doc Holliday tanktop, it was 50 in Northern Minnesota that day and only felt like summer because I'd experienced a 70-degree differential from other North Shore hikes within those past three months. 

The hills seem to go straight up, and crossing the stream requires steady rock hopping. The leaves on the trees must make the views even more impressive sight, but not being eaten alive by flies and mosquitos was a considerable compromise. 

Superior Hiking Trail #1-1 - Wild Valley Road to Southern Terminus

 

Superior Hiking Trail

Map 1 - Section 1

Wild Valley Road to Southern Terminus

Date Hiked: April 19th, 2025

Other Sections Hiked That Day: Map 1 - Section 2

I'm not a thru-hiker, not yet. 

Not because I can't do the hikes, but as I stated in the introduction, sleeping outside is not something I'm yet inclined to pursue. Don't get me wrong, I consider it a tremendous amount of progress, considering I wasn't raised in outdoor culture at all and picked everything up on my own. But, while I can be outside from the moment I'm awake, once it's time to get some sleep, the idea of hard ground and canvas surrounding me isn't exactly appealing for a multitude of reasons. Bears, bugs, and other wildlife are a consideration, but even higher on the list is, quite simply, I've been a professional athlete in two different contact sports since I was 20, so... X number of years of impact and recovery on these muscles and bones, well... Air mattresses and the forest floor don't sound conducive to waking up in any condition to continue hiking. Maybe I'll get there someday, but for now, section hiking is my next step up. If that doesn't make me a "real" hiker, so be it, I've never been much of a real anything in various subcultures anyway. 

I started out in Jay Cooke State Park, a familiar sight to my eyes and hiking boots, and I'll detail those six miles in the next post, but suffice it to summarize: it's a bit harder than the Jay Cooke State Park Hiking Club trail, even though the two share the same path heading southbound. While I know that most people hike the SHT northbound, the website said that the Wild Valley Road trailhead was closed, and the Minnesota Hiking Club taught me, if nothing else, trying to work around parking lot closures was a terrible idea, even without several feet of snow on the ground. 

Alas, as I approached the aforementioned trailhead, I saw plenty of cars parked outside the gate on the gravel road, and though AllTrails listed this section as an out-and-back, I wasn't yet sure if I'd be willing to repeat those eight miles on the SHT going the other way. For as difficult as the Prairie and Deer Valley Loop at Afton was, logging in over 16 miles on a trail listed as "hard," half the distance on the SHT was considerably more strenuous, thus the conundrum of the solo section hiker. 

Other than a passing train, I saw nary a presence on this section, which does require southbound traversing, even for Northbound thru-hikers, in order to access. Once I reached the southern terminus and state border, it took a few minutes to decide to continue on the North Country border trail and return to my car another way rather than doubling back. While this may have expanded my overall mile count to 18, traveling on the side of the road until I reached the Wrenshall biking trail, then cutting back in through the West Ridge in Jay Cooke was more appealing than trying to do those two sections again. 

Minnesota Hiking Club #5 - Jay Cooke State Park

 

Minnesota Hiking Club

#5 - Jay Cooke State Park

Date Hiked: March 8th, 2025

Other Hikes That Day: George C. Manitou State Park, St. Croix State Park

Wanderloon Ranking System Score: 4.33

As the notes of "Out of Time" by Kalax played through my halo headphones, I crossed the amazing bridge over jagged rocks and snow-covered ridges to the Jay Cooke State Park Hiking Club trail. My longest hike ever, 22 miles on the nearby Munger Trail, had taken me by this park before, but at a time where I was... to put it generously... detached from reality. 

Do you know, do you know, time is running out for me and you, so what you gonna do?

Cool. Ass. Rocks. The Swinging Bridge was a moment all on its own, highlighting Silver Creek flowing underneath the ice. The weather was incredibly nice, but I got there early enough that the crowds hadn't yet swarmed this obviously popular weekend destination. By the time I finished, that would no longer be the case. 

Just take my hand, may I have this dance tonight? Just take a chance, before we run out of time.

My mind was full, and not just with calculations of how to finish the Hiking Club before my self-imposed arbitrary deadline looming two weeks in the future. An extremely traumatic event had shook me to my core, and I lay with a decision to be made at this point in my life: retreat back into the shell, fold myself up, and fade away. Or. Turn up the volume, live my life out loud, and stop trying to be who everyone else wanted me to be? A box I never wanted, or the person who skips on a trail and sings in the rain?

This one moment, that only comes once in a life. Let's fall in love before we run out of time.

3.5 miles along the Silver Creek, over crunchy ice, in the deep woods, and along rocky ridges, my mind wasn't truly taking in and appreciating the splendor with which I was blessed at a time with no hoards of people swarming around, the person I've always been remained protected in the fog as I tried desperately to know what was the right thing to do. I had love in my life, that was not the problem. But at this point, I wasn't 20 anymore and didn't have all the time in the world to stall, settle, and wait for the chance to do what my heart overwhelmingly wanted. 

Do you know, do you know, just how hard it is to play it cool and numb with you? I love the way moonlight passes on your summer dress and prettier shine from the darkness, only you. Just take my hand... 

Would I ever have the chance again? Would life ever present a better opportunity to break the mold? To embrace the chance, to dance before I ran out of time? It would be so easy to hide, to put the mask back on. Would I make up my mind?

Just take a chance, before we run out of time.

Well, you're reading this story right now, aren't you?